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Dispatches: The big lead - Saturday, 3rd April 2004


Day's Statistics

Expedition & Environmental Statistics:
Position:83.49.1N 97.31.3E (view route map)
Daily distance:8.7 nm
Total distance:120.7 nm
Distance to go:786.7 nm
Travelling time:4hrs
Temperature:-20°C
Conditions:strong south-easterly decreasing; early whitout; pressure ridges followed by a huge lead
view large image
view large image

A lead is a term for an area of open water - a crack in the pack ice. They're common up here (this is an ocean I'm skiing over, after all) and are usually either narrow enough to jump or sufficiently frozen to ski across.

No such luck today. The wind was blowing hard last night, but as it was blowing me north, I was happy. Taking the tent down without it blowing away took both hands, both feet and one knee, it was snowing and the visibility was poor - close to a whiteout at times. The ice was hard work - big pressure ridges and deep drifted snow.

As the ice flattened out, I spotted an ominous dark line across the horizon that could only mean one thing - open water. Sure enough, it was a monster lead, black as ink and with waves being whipped up by the wind. At points I couldn't see the far side and where I could, I'd guess it was 100m away. Yowser.

The 'banks' were very high and I chickened out of trying to swim pretty quickly. I skied east for a while but it just got worse and I finally decided to camp early in the hope that it freezes/closes up.

I've had a look (weird how it seems less frightening now the sun's out) and it's doing both - for once, I'm quite reassured by the noises I can hear from my tent. Early start tomorrow...

Today is dedicated to DB - your message made my day. Stay in touch, and keep wiggling those toes...

Visitor Comments


# Well done and keep up the slog.

Hi Ben

We have never met before but I heard a great deal about your exped at the CAG Conference. I hope you are feeling a bit happier and making some progress. Having ran the West Highland Way race several times(97 miles, 9500 foot overall ascent and 35 hours to do it in) I can probably relate to some of the joy, pain and suffering you are going through. I never met any polar bears though you think you would in Scotland eh. At 5' 5' I never thought I could hit my head on the top of aa bridge, but I did. A race companion told me to get off my knees and save my prayers for later as we still had 50 miles to go. revenge is sweet and when he dislocated his finger I happily assisted in putting it right for him. Hope this gives you a bit of encouragement in your courageous endeavour and I will keep you in mind with every mile I run.

By Patrick Burns on Monday, 5 April - 09:27 am -0700


# A RASH OF IDEAS

Hi Ben,

Have just caught up with your week after a few days concentrating on other productions, none of which have the drama, emotion and grit of your epic! Seems like we missed a trick on Wimbledon Common - we should have had you dragging the tyres over the windmill and through the pond too.... Anyway, you're doing famously with the daily narrative and we're all sitting on the edge of our seats waiting for each new scene to unfold. (note to self: must watch an episode or two of "Holby City" or "ER" to pick up tips on dealing with nappy rash in a tasteful, pictorial fashion). What a cool movie this can be.....!

Best regards - you're doing great.

Robin

By Robin Marriott on Sunday, 4 April - 03:35 pm -0700


# tramps

heres another joke but dont be sick
a man is closing up a dentist surgury for the night and a tramp walks up to the man and asks for a toothpick so the dentist gives him one and off the tramp goes. then another tramp walks up to him and asks for a toothpick and so the dentist gives him one. then another tramp walks up to him and the dentist says " i know, you want a toothpick." and the tramp says no a straw. the dentist is curious why he wants a straw so asks him and the tramp replies a man has just been sick outside but all the good bits have gone.

By amy on Sunday, 4 April - 03:03 pm -0700


# the lepar

heres a joke to keep you smiling
a man walks into a bar and asks for a shot of tequila and he drinks it and vomits. he asks for another one and drinks it and vomits. a lepar walks over to him and says " im sorry if my appearence is making you sick." and the other man replies "no your not its the man next to you dipping his chips in your neck."

By amy on Sunday, 4 April - 02:54 pm -0700


# keep going

your doing very well. well done this is a message of encouragement, because i think you are very brave doing this all alone. i dont think i would have the guts to do it. keep up the good work. have you seen any polar bears yet, o and for a bit of useless info all polar bears are left handed. well done!!!!

By laura on Sunday, 4 April - 02:44 pm -0700


# Stay safe!

Hi Ben,

Hope you don't run into anymore whiteouts. I thought the Arctic was basically a cold, ice desert, but it seems that's not always the case. Hope your boot holds up, and don't let these people give you earworms (songs that replay in your head and drive you nuts). Have your collection of fight songs ready. Glad, also, to see your elapsed distance increasing. Keep it up!

By Maria, KG4JBJ on Sunday, 4 April - 03:36 am -0700


# Excellent progress today!

Congratulations on your progress today, Ben! 4 hrs yielding 8.7nm! Right on! What's for dinner tonight? Hope you're treating yourself to something extra tasty for such a hard day's work! Happy that you are safe and that your spirits are good! Keep it up, my man! One thought: If you write a book about this experience and do a tour, it would be fabulous to meet you! One question: How do you manage to take such great pictures (some of yourself!) in action? I can tell you I enjoy then and appreciate the time you take to capture the moment! Thanks Ben! -- Nikki

By Nikki on Saturday, 3 April - 09:49 pm -0800


# . . .enjoy a change in food?

Ben, glad you decided to pull over for the evening!
Sounds normal but awful! Adventure, hummmmmm. You could ice fish and perhaps enjoy a change in food? I guess those fish are too big?

Anyway, my prayers and good thoughts are with you. Glad you are safe!
Cissy,
Texas
PS: Q: What's an ig?
A: A snow house without a loo!

By Cissy on Saturday, 3 April - 09:13 pm -0800


# HOLY COW!!!!

I never expected a "shout out" from you Ben. HOLY COW!!!! It's a good thing today is Saturday. I'm so proud that I made your day,... I'd probably fall and bust my ass trying to walk in physical therapy.

You made my day with the message back.


After reading todays posting I started thinking. [I'll try not to strain my brain ;) ]
We all have our "leads," in life. Mine being paralysis, your's being a true lead, today. Sometimes it pays to gut it out and sometimes you have to take an early break and just ponder things. It seems that sometimes, while taking a break, the solution just comes to you or just happens. So I'm hoping that your solution just comes to you and your lead freezes over.

Gut it out (and sometimes stop to ponder)

DB

By Paul Christian on Saturday, 3 April - 09:06 pm -0800


# This time Congrats to DB

Hi DB
We will be following your progress as well as Ben's!!!! Yes Keep wiggling those toes! that is the start to success!!!!

By Tete on Saturday, 3 April - 07:18 pm -0800


# Its snowing here!

I've heard of your journey and log but this is my first chance to visit. I know polar dipping is a facinating activity for some... but solo dipping anywhere is a poor idea. I advise you to skip it! I was fealing sorry for myself because, after days of above freezing weather it decided to snow this morning. After visiting your site I feel much better. Happy mushing.

By Garry on Saturday, 3 April - 06:34 pm -0800


# That's better.

None of that time-wasting skinny-dipping and sitting in the sun.
Keep up the good work.

Ken (Superflid)

By Ken Powell on Saturday, 3 April - 06:17 pm -0800


# Most Intense

Hi, Ben
Today's dispatch, intensified for me, your odyssey in the Arctic. The photograph, and your narration evoked images of extreme struggle, of standing against everything nature can throw at you, and perservering despite a ghastly lead. Wishing you all the best tomorrow morning.
Best,
-Scot

By Scot Morrison on Saturday, 3 April - 05:17 pm -0800


# Scary

I'm glad you didn't try to swim... From what I've learned since discovering you on the internet, that should absolutely be your last resort. I hope the lead freezes over sufficiently for you to be able to cross it. Take care and be careful! I know you will be - just the mother in me coming out.

By Gwen on Saturday, 3 April - 04:37 pm -0800

Dispatches Archive


The following dispatches are an archive spanning the 4-5 months that Ben spent prior to the expedition, the expedition itself, and the returning home period.


Speed demon

Speed demon - Thursday, 1st April 2004

The ice was very odd today - the best and worst yet. The best bits were a couple of huge pans (flat areas) and a gorgeous north pointing frozen lead. The worst was wall to wall rubble (I don't know if it's clear in the pic) with blocks the size of ...read more

Day 29

Day 29 - Friday, 2nd April 2004

HAPPY BIRTHDAY MUM! A pretty good day today - the ice is starting to improve (thanks Cissy!) and the wind has turned slightly, meaning my face is no longer frozen and I'm drifting ever so slightly north. Finally! The conditions are still far ...read more

The big lead

The big lead - Saturday, 3rd April 2004

A lead is a term for an area of open water - a crack in the pack ice. They're common up here (this is an ocean I'm skiing over, after all) and are usually either narrow enough to jump or sufficiently frozen to ski across. No such luck today. The ...

84 degrees

84 degrees - Sunday, 4th April 2004

I've been out here for a month yet only today did I finally feel like I was getting into my stride. I had every sort of ice imaginable - rubble, pressure ridges of all shapes and sizes and so many leads that I lost count. It was still really windy ...read more

On thin ice

On thin ice - Monday, 5th April 2004

The Arctic ocean was a bit too much like an ocean for my liking today. The nice flat pans I was expecting never materialised and I had areas of rubble, more pressure ridges and dozens of leads to contend with. Luckily, the huge ones were all frozen ...read more

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“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.” - T.S. Eliot