It was a beautiful day again today, but I noticed something unusual as I set off this morning. I have a ribbon taped to a ski pole that shows the direction of the wind (useful for navigating if I can't see the sun). For weeks now, it's been streaming out to my left (wind from the east) but this morning it was pointing in the opposite direction - the wind had veered 180 degrees overnight.
The wind has a major effect on the drift of the ice - I've been drifting west for much of the expedition, but today I noticed that I'm being carried slightly east and the ice isn't happy about it. Millions of tons of it have come grinding to a halt and are changing direction, and like a giant machine that can't quite take the strain, faults are appearing everywhere. There were dozens of fresh leads today, many either opening or closing as I approached them. I saw giant pressure ridges being formed, huge plates of ice being forced under or over each other and water bubbling out of cracks.
I had to zigzag wildly to make my way north, so the mileage wasn't spectacular and I'm camped just south of a large lead that I'm hoping will freeze overnight. Another crazy day!
Today is dedicated to Dr. Justin Roberts, who developed the rations that Pen & I used in 2001, and upon which I based the nutrition for this expedition. Justin, if you're reading, I have an idea you might be interested in - I'll tell all when I'm back on terra firma...
Finally, I was going to say more about the resupply - basically it'll mean I'm back to a relatively heavy sledge (boo!) but it also means I get fresh underwear, a new sleeping bag, a surprise food parcel, letters, a newspaper and a few other bits and bobs (hooray!).
Dispatches: Cracking up - Tuesday, 20th April 2004
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