Dispatches: Crash landing - Friday, 30th April 2004
There is a degree of contention in the polar world over which route to the Pole is toughest - from Canada or from Russia. Some argue that the Russian route (despite being 100 miles further) is 'easier' because the drift is 'mostly north' and the ice is flatter. This may have been the case ten years ago, but I don't believe it holds true any more.
And I'm sure the Arctic is trying to back me up here, because this morning I was presented with several prime specimens of the 'flippin' huge' variety of pressure ridge. Real whoppers. To give you an idea of scale, I plonked my ski (190 cm or 6'3") next to the one in the photo.
Anyway, pressure ridges are a fact of life which ever route you take to the Pole, and crossing them is rarely easy. About three hours into the day, I climbed a real monster, hauled my sledge up and left it teetering right on the top as I clambered down the far side. I'd employed this slightly risky technique before - get to the bottom, give the rope a tug and hey presto, the sledge comes down after you. This time, I got it wrong. Halfway down, I lost my footing and felt the rope go tight and then slack again. I felt like a bomb defusal expert that had just snipped the wrong wire... I heard a rumbling behind me and like a freight train, the sledge hurtled down the ridge, knocking me over like a rag doll. After realising I was still alive, I completely lost my temper and had to resort to some emergency Bob Marley tracks I have on an mp3 player...
You'll be glad to hear that after all this, the weather and the ice are both improving.
Today is dedicated to Liv Arnesen and Ann Bancroft, who are planning on making an Arctic crossing next spring. I can't wait to pass on a few of the things I'd do differently next time...
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